Grapevines are vigorous climbers that require careful pruning and training to stay manageable and produce a good harvest. Regular pruning, done in winter and throughout the growing season, is key to maintaining the health of the vine and ensuring it remains within its desired shape. Here’s a guide to effective pruning and training techniques for grapevines.
Main Training Methods for Grapevines
Two primary training systems are used for grapevines: the Rod and Spur (Cordon) system and the Guyot system. Each system has its benefits depending on the space available and the intended growth environment.
- Rod and Spur System (Cordon Training):
This versatile method is ideal for greenhouse grapes, or outdoor vines trained along a wall, fence, or over a pergola. The vine is trained to form a permanent framework, with one or more stems. New fruiting shoots that grow from the permanent stem need to be pinched back during the summer and pruned in winter. The system helps maintain a compact structure and ensures fruit is produced on short side shoots (spurs). - Guyot System:
Commonly used in vineyards for both wine and dessert grapes, the Guyot system is also great for home gardens. This ‘renewal system’ involves growing one or two horizontal branches from a short permanent main stem. After each fruiting season, the previous year’s fruiting arm(s) are removed and replaced with new shoots. This method is suitable for growing grapes in rows and is easy to manage. - Standard Form:
For limited spaces, you can grow a grapevine as a “standard.” This involves training the vine to a single stem with a head of branches at the top, similar to a lollipop shape. It’s a good option for containerized plants and smaller spaces but will yield a smaller crop.
When to Prune and Train Your Grapevine
Pruning should begin in early winter (late November or December) while the vine is fully dormant. Pruning later in the winter can cause sap bleeding, which weakens the plant. Grapevines in greenhouses, where sap rises earlier, need to be pruned by mid-winter.
Spring and Summer:
Once the vine begins to grow, you’ll need to train and trim back new shoots and thin the fruit if necessary. This helps manage growth and ensures the vine focuses energy on producing healthy, ripe grapes.
Supporting Your Grapevine
Regardless of which training system you use, a permanent support structure is essential for grapevines to thrive. Whether you choose a trellis, wall, or pergola, make sure it’s sturdy enough to support the vine as it grows and produces fruit.
Common Issues and FAQs
Why Did My Grapevine Bleed After Pruning?
If you prune later in the season, especially in January or beyond, the vine may bleed sap. This is particularly common in older vines or in greenhouses where sap rises earlier. While this sap flow can’t be stopped, it usually ceases once the vine starts growing in spring. To prevent this, aim to finish pruning by mid-winter.
My Grapevine’s New Shoots Are Damaged by Frost – Should I Delay Pruning?
If you’re in a region prone to spring frosts, consider delaying pruning until March or early April. This will help avoid frost damage to new shoots. However, larger cuts into older wood should still be done while the vine is dormant, before mid-winter.
Conclusion
Pruning and training grapevines might seem complicated at first, but with the right approach, it can become an enjoyable and rewarding task. By choosing the appropriate training system for your space and climate, pruning in the right season, and providing adequate support, you’ll enjoy a fruitful harvest for years to come.