Pruning apple and pear trees can seem intimidating, but with the right approach, it’s a manageable task that can lead to better fruit production and healthier trees. Whether you’ve inherited a tree that needs some attention or you’re looking to improve the growth of a newly planted one, our guide will help you tackle pruning with confidence.
When to Prune Your Apple or Pear Tree
The best time to prune apple and pear trees is in winter, between November and early March, when the leaves have fallen. Pruning during this time reduces the risk of spreading diseases and allows the tree to rest while you shape it for the next growing season.
Five Key Tips for Pruning Apples and Pears
- Moderate Pruning
Limit your pruning to 10-20% of the overall canopy each year. If you remove too much at once, the tree may produce excessive regrowth, especially « watershoots, » which can overcrowd the tree. Aim to prune a little each year, focusing on the older, less productive wood. - Encourage Healthy Growth
Your goal is to remove older, less productive wood to encourage new growth, which fruits best. Aim for an open-center shape to your tree, which allows more light and air to reach the fruiting branches and helps prevent disease. - Avoid Over-Pruning
Resist the urge to remove too many branches at once, especially the larger limbs. Large cuts can leave the tree vulnerable to decay. Focus on smaller branches (1-5 cm) and aim for 10-20 pruning cuts overall. - Stagger Your Cuts
Don’t just prune the top branches. Instead, work around the tree, cutting selectively to maintain an even canopy. This prevents the growth of a thicket of non-fruiting shoots, ensuring a healthy, fruit-bearing tree. - No Need for Pruning Paint
Unlike some trees, apple and pear trees don’t need pruning paint. However, pruning paint is useful for trees like plums and cherries, which are more susceptible to diseases from cuts.
Common Issues You May Encounter
While following these steps will usually result in a healthy, well-maintained tree, you may encounter some common problems during your pruning:
- Lichen: This harmless grey/green crust on branches doesn’t require action.
- Mummified Fruit: If you find shriveled fruit, these may have been infected with brown rot and should be removed and discarded.
- Apple Canker: Dark, flaky patches on branches indicate canker, which should be cut out if it affects smaller branches.
- Blossom Wilt: Brown and shriveled blossoms may indicate blossom wilt. Remove affected shoots to prevent the spread.
- Dieback: If you notice a lot of dead branches, it could indicate an underlying root issue, like honey fungus. Professional advice may be necessary.
Additional Considerations
Older trees can develop natural cavities in the trunk or branches, which are generally stable. Don’t drill into these to drain water, as this can invite disease. If the cavity grows larger or you notice any signs of fungal growth, consult an arborist.