Some trees and shrubs naturally form a well-branched framework and require minimal or no pruning. Over-pruning can even harm these plants.
Quick Facts
- Suitable for: Evergreen and deciduous trees and shrubs with non-vigorous shoots
- Timing: Late winter or early spring (for plants that don’t bleed); late summer or early autumn (for plants that bleed)
- Difficulty: Easy to moderate
Suitable For
This pruning method works best for trees and shrubs that:
- Are evergreen or deciduous and don’t produce vigorous shoots needing control
- Flower on the previous or current year’s growth
Examples:
- Evergreens: Strawberry tree (Arbutus), Holly (Ilex), Bay (Laurus)
- Deciduous: Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum), Snowy Mespilus (Amelanchier), Deciduous Azalea (Rhododendron sp.), Flowering Dogwood (Cornus kousa), Witch Hazel (Hamamelis), Magnolia, Lilac (Syringa)
When to Lightly Prune
- Late Winter/Early Spring: Prune most deciduous trees and shrubs
- Late Summer/Early Autumn: Some trees, like Birch (Betula), bleed if pruned in winter. Prune them at this time to avoid bleeding and facilitate healing. Similarly, prune Deciduous Magnolias in late summer to reduce dieback.
- After Flowering: Prune Deciduous Azaleas and Lilac immediately after flowering.
How to Lightly Prune
- No routine pruning is required.
- Remove diseased, damaged, congested, or crossing shoots.
- Prune out any unwanted directional growth.
- After pruning, mulch and feed the plants.
Common Problems to Watch For
- Bacterial canker
- Bracket fungi
- Coral spot
- Verticillium wilt
- Non-flowering (as a potential pruning issue)